Aug 10, 2005 – Delta
Most of this day was spent on board the boat. Two lectures helped fill the time. George Schneider: “Art and Architecture in Bucharest”, and Susan Suleiman: “Communism and Post Communism in Central Europe: A Few Writers' Reflection”. Most of our time, however, was spent watching the changes in the scenery as we passed through the delta. We took the southern arm of the river, and were somewhat disappointed at how few birds we say. Our expectations were higher. Nonetheless, the changes in the vegetation and the numerous islands (some supposedly floating) made for interesting viewing. Sometime around midday we passed the mouth of the river. To our amusement, there were cattle grazing on the narrow spit of remaining land. We then found ourselves in the Black Sea. We learned that only the top 600 feet of the sea has a living ecology, where the fresh water is in greater abundance than the salt. Below that depth, due to the salinity and density, there is no oxygen and organisms that can live on sulfate produce H2S (hydrogen sulfide) which is highly toxic to oxygen breathing organisms. They suggested that it is extremely dangerous for scuba divers to go deep in the Black Sea. On the other hand, because of the lack of oxygen, anything deep under the sea remains pretty much intact, and there have been excavations bringing to the surface artifacts several thousand years old.
We spent about five minutes on the Black Sea, being told that we are a river boat, not designed to go on the sea. Then we turned back upriver. Quite near the mouth of the river is a small fishing village called San Gheorghu. We docked (sliding sideways on the sand trying to get close) and went for a brief walk. The “streets” were simply dirt paths trampled by cattle, feet, and wheels. Every house has a subsistence garden, with vegetables and at least one fruit tree. Most also had a plethora of flowers. Some had visible stacks of firewood, which was a bit confusing, since we could not see much in the way of trees. Life did not look particularly easy, there. Modern life and commercialism is coming their way, however, as a resort hotel is being built on the edge of the village. It will be an interesting contrast in social and economic strata. As we went upstream we saw similar contrasts, with small fishing rowboats beached near the shore, and huge factories off in the distance.
We had the captain’s farewell cocktail hour and dinner (dressy) and were already starting to feel a bit nostalgic, knowing we were almost at the end of the cruise.